Buchanan to the Logoutuo border: long journey for everyone

It turns out, as my moto driver taking me to the car park in Buchanan is telling me, that I won’t be able to get to Ganta on Liberian-Guinean border or even Gbarnga, which is on the way to Ganta directly from Buchanan. I will have to go back to Monrovia. Ugh. Sure enough, the […]

Monrovia to Buchanan: no beach to camp

Lonely Planet lists 5 “highlights” of Liberia: 1. Robertsport – surfing 2. Monrovia – capital 3. Buchanan – camping on the beach and relaxing at the port 4. Sapo National Park – pygmy hippos 5. Harper – nice town to be in. Of all those places, I’ve been to Monrovia already, Robertsport charges crazy money […]

A Wednesday in Monrovia

I woke up after 7am. The plan was today to leave town and go on, to Buchanan but I didn’t wanna get up. Is the bed, though single size, so comfortable? The fan working so well, so quietly? Don’t know. I was pondering what to do for some time and I decided to stay in […]

Jendema to Monrovia: checkpoints galore

The border crossing of Jendema (SL)-Bo Waterside (Liberia) is full of bribe stories on iOverlander. People being asked for money for not having a visa sticker but a visa stamp in their passport in Sierra Leone, for not having meningitis or cholera vaccination in their yellow vaccination card. And here I am, with a stamp […]

Tiwai Island to Jendema: bike bike bike

I woke up before 7am. The rain was heavy. I just lied down waiting for it to be over. It was quite chilly. Very often here you don’t get anything to cover yourself with in bed as it’s too hot and such was the case here. I covered myself with towel and it was enough. […]

Bo to Tiwai Island: a good police officer

It wasn’t straightforward to find a right moto. The drivers simply didn’t know what I was asking them to. Potoru? Which side of town is that? Potoru is the village that is the closest to Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary. It’s apparently the place where the scientists first discovered chimpanzees can use tools. Obviously, it’s inhabited […]

Freetown to Bo: how it is to be an alpha male

The cleaning day – which prohibits any movement unless you have a “pass, people stay at homes, cars don’t drive, businesses stay closed – didn’t in my eyes do much cleaning. It ended at 12pm. I set off to find bus to Jui, a junction where I was told to find transport on to Bo. […]

Friday in Freetown: no more rainy days

Morning became a routine already. Out by just before 11am, chatted with the tourism men who are here again. Breakfast a stew green with rice at Jeska Mac, off on a moto to Nigerian Embassy. As I walked in I saw two young men, possibly Nigerians, entering the compound and snapping photos all around. Photos […]

Visa no. 10: Ivory Coast in Freetown

This is how all visas should be. Ivory Coast maintains a honorary consulate in Freetown. It’s at 1 Wilson Street. I arrive at the consulate at 1:15pm on Friday. Its marked by Ivorian flag, there is no sign. I see a man outside he leads me to a room. Visas are granted, take 2 working […]

Visa no. 9: Nigeria in Freetown

It’s been a bit of a rollercoaster. Monday. The high commission opens for consular affairs at 10am, I’m asked to wait outside. We enter a few minutes past 10, I, a Lebanese man and a German couple. A man comes out to meet us. The Germans are quoted $175 each for the visa paid to […]